Chanterelle
This pleasantly aromatic fleshy wild mushroom shines like an
exotic golden flower when seen from a distance against the drab
autumn forest background. Also known as "golden chanterelle" and "egg
mushroom," it has a magical appeal for most culinary experts in
Europe, United States, and Asia. But all chanterelles are not alike.
European and Asian forms are usually about the size of a thumb. In
the eastern United States they are the size of a fist. But, ah, in
the west they can be as large as two hand spans--from little finger
to little finger. Chanterelles weighing as much as two pounds are
not uncommon.
Europeans and easterners claim that their varieties are tastier
than those from the West Coast and suggest that flavor is more
important than thumb size. It has been a rewarding experience to try
to resolve this argument. The reader may happily experiment with such
savory adventures as are suggested in this book to discover the
truth.
Chanterelles seem to be worth their weight in gold. They are
golden looking, golden tasting, and golden priced. The cap is fleshy,
with wavy, rounded cap margins tapering downward to meet the stem.
The gills are not the usual thin straight panels hanging from the
lower surface of the cap, as we see in the common store mushroom.
Instead, the ridges are rounded, blunt, shallow, and widely spaced.
At the edge of the cap they are forked and interconnected. The
chanterelle's aroma is variously described as apricot- or peachlike.
It is unmistakably different and identifiable.
Chanterelles will reappear in the same places year after year
if carefully harvested so as not to disturb the ground in which the
mycelium (the vegetative part of the mushroom) grows. There are
yearly variations--some years more mushrooms, some less. They fruit
from September to February on the West Coast and almost all summer in
the east, sometimes coming up in several flushes. We think of them
as promiscuous in their plant relationships, because we have found
their mycelial threads intertwined with the roots of hardwood trees,
conifers, shrubs, and bushes. They enjoy deep, old leaf litter.
Chanterelles are seldom invaded by insects. And forest animals do not
share our interest in them as food.
There is an off-white species of chanterelle, called C.
subalbidus, the white chanterelle, found in California and the
Pacific Northwest. They are found in the same localities as C.
cibarius and we clean and cook them in the same manner as the golden
ones. In general, they are more difficult to clean because of their
fragility. They are seldom found in large numbers.
A black relative of the chanterelle, Craterellus cornucopioides,
is unfairly called "the trumpet of death." Don't believe it--the black
chanterelle is delicious. C. cornucopioides is difficult to spell
and to find. Smaller in size than the orange chanterelle, the caps
are funnel shaped and hollow all the way down to the base of the
stem. It has been well described as a black petunia . Its dark
cap, gray underside, and its habit of growing in dark places under
shrubs make this secretive mushroom a challenge to find. There are
a few equally edible look-alikes.
C. cornucopioides can be halved and easily washed off. The
texture is crisp and firm, like the Asian wood ear mushroom, but it
is much more tasty. Add it to soups or stews for texture and flavor.
Sauté it in butter or chop and simmer in a white sauce, then serve on
thin slices of toast. Many people dry these mushrooms thoroughly and
grind them into a powder. This is sprinkled on top of foods or added
to casseroles or soups for a rich mushroom flavor.
A Word About Purchasing Commercial Chanterelles
More and more golden chanterelles are appearing in marketplaces.
They are expensive, so only buy specimens in prime condition. Here
is what to look for:
- They should have a fragrant odor.
- The color should be golden or apricot.
- They should not be slimy or have dark, decaying parts.
- The gills should not be granular, fragmenting off the fleshy
portion of the mushrooms.
Cleaning
This can be a chore. Chanterelles grow exuberantly. The cap
margins fold tightly to form crevices from which it is difficult to
dislodge debris.
The caps grow around twigs and brambles. Sometimes it is necessary to
section portions of larger specimens to get at the foreign material.
Use a toothbrush or a nylon mushroom brush to whisk away any
surface material. In order to clean small particles of sand or dirt
caught between the rounded gills, you must brush them under a slowly
running faucet. Do not soak them. In general, the less water the
better. Drain them on paper towels. They keep well if allowed to
remain in a waxed paper or brown paper bag in the refrigerator until
they are cleaned. However, cleaned chanterelles may also be stored
in the refrigerator for a few days. They should be loosely arranged
in a bowl lined with cloth or paper towels and covered lightly with
towels.
Cooking
Cut them into hunks of a generous size, so that the maximum
amount of flavor can be appreciated. Chanterelles are meaty and
chewy. One of the best ways to cook them is to slice and sauté them
in butter. Cream or half and half and chicken broth are good
additions. Chanterelles bake well and retain their flavor after long
cooking. Eggs, chicken, pork, and veal harmonize beautifully with
them.
After trying many recipes, we still prefer to cook chanterelles
by baking them for 20 minutes in chicken broth with coarsely chopped
onions. Serve this over rice or pasta. Potatoes will overpower the
chanterelle flavor, as will many other vegetables.
Very few people eat chanterelles raw. They are peppery and
upsetting, and they can make some people ill. In any case, their
finest flavor can only be appreciated when they are thoroughly cooked.
Preserving
Freeze chanterelles after sautéing with butter and onions. When
defrosted, they will retain most of their flavor.
Dried chanterelles lose flavor and the texture of the slices
becomes rubbery. A chef recently suggested that dried chanterelles
reconstituted in water overnight retain more flavor if the soaking
water is included when they are cooked.
To can chanterelles, clean them thouroughly and cut them in big chunks and steam for 20 minutes. Place the pieces in small canning jars and cover them
with the liquid from the steaming vessel or boiling water to make up the
difference. Add 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/2 teaspoon vinegar. Finally, sterilize them for 40 minutes in a pressure cooker at 10 pounds pressure.
Chanterelles can be pickled with various spices and flavorings in
vinegar, oil, soy sauce, etc.. They will keep for a week in the
refrigerator.
Marinated Chanterelles
Serves 8 as an appetizer
Paul is a well-known Berkeley chef. He recommends that these
marinated chanterelles be eaten as appetizers or be heated and
drained to serve over pasta.
- 1 cup peanut oil or light olive oil
- 1 pound chanterelles, cut into large slices (make sure they are dry--waterlogged mushrooms won't work)
Marinade:
- 1/4 cup fine wine vinegar, balsamic or fruit vinegar
- 1 garlic clove, sliced thin
- 1 bay leaf
- 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
- Pinch of fresh herbs (tarragon, savory, oregano, or marjoram)
- 1/4 teaspoon salt
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In a sauté pan or skillet, heat the oil until it becomes very
hot, then add the chanterelles. Toss them in the pan quickly for 3
to 5 minutes.
Combine all the marinade ingredients. Add the chanterelles and
the oil from the pan. Marinate the mushrooms for at least 4 hours
in the refrigerator. This will keep for 2 weeks in the refrigerator.
--Paul Johnston
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Golden Chanterelle Puffs
Makes about 35 puffs
Chanterelle puffs are a light and elegant party food. Serve them
with a white wine such as traminer, riesling, or sauvignon blanc.
- 1 cup chicken broth
- 1/2 pound chanterelles, minced
- 1/2 cup (1 stick ) butter
- 1/2 teaspoon salt
- 1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
- 3 eggs
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Heat the chicken broth in a heavy medium saucepan. Add the
chanterelles, butter, and salt and allow to come to a boil. Stir in
the flour, mixing constantly until the mixture is smooth and almost
leaves the sides of the pan. Remove from the heat. Beat one egg at
a time into the mixture.
Drop tablespoons of the dough onto a buttered cookie sheet,
spacing the spoonfuls about 2 inches apart. Bake in a preheated 450º
oven for 15 minutes or until firm and golden. Cool the puffs on a
rack.
--Louise Freedman
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ALTERNATE MUSHROOM: Fairy-Ring Mushroom
Wilted Spinach Salad with Chanterelles
Serves 4 as a first course
For color and taste contrast, golden chanterelles and deep-green
spinach are a great combination . Serve on warm plates and garnish
with wedges of egg, if you like.
- 1/2 pound chanterelles, sliced
- 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
- 5 bacon slices, chopped
- 1 pound spinach
- 5 green onions, diced
- 5 radishes, sliced
- 3 tablespoons dry red wine vinegar
- Salt and pepper to taste
- 1 hard-cooked egg, cut in wedges (optional)
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Parboil the chanterelles for 3 to 5 minutes. Drain. Marinate the
chanterelles in the lemon juice for 15 minutes.
In a large sauté pan or skillet, fry the bacon until crisp.
Remove the bacon with a slotted spoon and reserve. Discard all but 2
tablespoons of the bacon fat from the pan.
Clean and wash the spinach in several changes of water. Cut
away tough stems. Dry the spinach well and mix with the green
onions, radishes, and marinated chanterelles.
Heat the bacon fat in the pan. Add the vinegar and bacon and,
while still hot, pour it over the spinach mixture and toss. Serve on
warm dishes and garnish with wedges of egg.
--Louise Freedman
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ALTERNATE MUSHROOMS: Common Store Mushroom, Ear Mushrooms
Mushroom Biscuits
Makes 12 biscuits
This quick biscuit recipe is especially good when fresh chanterelles
are in season. Other mushrooms can be substituted.
- 1 small onion, minced
- 4 tablespoons butter
- 1/2 pound chanterelles, chopped into small pieces
- 2 teaspoons baking powder
- 1/2 teaspoon baking soda
- 1-1/2 teaspoons salt
- 2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
- 1 cup milk
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In a sauté pan or skillet sauté the onion in the butter for 2
minutes. Add the mushrooms to the pan and cook for 5 to 7 minutes or
until most of the liquid has evaporated. Set aside and let cool.
In a mixing bowl, sift the baking powder, baking soda, and salt
with the flour. Make a well in the center of the flour mixture and
slowly pour in the milk, blending the mixture into a sticky dough.
Quickly mix the mushroom mixture into the dough. Do not overmix.
Drop the dough by tablespoons onto a buttered baking sheet or
fill buttered muffin pans two-thirds full. Bake 15 to 20 minutes in
a preheated 400º oven, or until the biscuits are golden brown.
--Louise Freedman
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Artichokes and Chanterelles
Serves 4 as a side dish
A recipe that brings together two West Coast favorites, artichokes
and chanterelles. Trimmed small whole artichokes may also be used.
- 1 pound fresh or thawed frozen artichoke hearts
- 1/2 pound chanterelles, sliced thin
- 3 tablespoons butter
- 2 tablespoons flour
- 1-1/2 cups milk
- 1/2 cup half and half
- Salt
- 1/4 cup freshly grated Monterey jack or Emmenthaler cheese
- Few drops of lemon juice
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Cook the artichokes in boiling salted water to cover until tender.
Arrange the artichoke hearts in a buttered baking dish. Place
the chanterelles on top. Melt the butter in a saucepan, stir in the
flour, and add the milk and half and half. Whisk until the mixture
starts to thicken. Reduce the heat and add the salt to taste.
Spoon the sauce over the artichokes and chanterelles, sprinkle
with the cheese, and bake in a preheated 350º oven for 15 minutes.
Quickly squeeze a few drops of lemon juice on top and serve.
--Fred Cherry
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ALTERNATE MUSHROOM: Common Store Mushroom
Sautéed Chanterelles, Russian Style
Serves 4 as a side dish
This is a very old method of cooking chanterelles that was passed
down to Mary by her Russian mother. Serve this dish with fresh fried
oysters, and a simple coleslaw made of finely shredded cabbage and
paper-thin sliced onions dressed lightly with salt, olive oil, and
vinegar. Most other mushrooms can be used in this recipe except for Asian
varieties.
- 4 bacon slices, cut in 1-1/2-inch pieces
- 1 pound chanterelles, cut into pieces
- 1 medium onion, diced
- 1 to 2 tablespoons sweet or sour cream
- Salt and pepper to taste
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Fry the bacon until crisp. Leave the bacon in the pan and
remove all but 2 tablespoons of fat. Place the mushrooms in a large
saucepan and add water to cover. Bring to a boil, then drain
immediately and thoroughly. Add the chanterelles and onion to the
bacon and cook about 10 minutes over low heat, stirring often. Add
salt and pepper to taste. Add the cream just before serving.
--Mary Keehner
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Chanterelles in the Oven
Serves 4 as a side dish
Easily prepared, this can be served as a side dish with baked
chicken, a roast, or grilled fish. It can also be used as a sauce for
pasta or rice.
- 1 pound chanterelles, cut in halves or quarters
- 1 onion, chopped
- 1/4 cup rich chicken broth
- 1/2 cup heavy cream
- Salt and pepper to taste
- 2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley
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Arrange the chanterelles in a buttered casserole dish. Cover
with the chopped onion. Cover the dish and bake in a preheated 350º
oven for 20 minutes. Remove the cover, add the broth and cream, and
continue to bake without the cover for another 15 minutes. Do not
allow the cream to boil. Adjust the flavor by adding salt and
pepper. Serve with the parsley sprinkled on top.
--Louise Freedman
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ALTERNATE MUSHROOM: Hedgehog Mushroom, Milky Caps
Chanterelles with Chestnuts and Wine
Serves 4 as a side dish
An elegant side dish to serve during the Christmas holidays when
chanterelles and chestnuts are fresh on the West Coast. Serve with a
prime rib roast.
- 3 tablespoons butter
- 1 pound chanterelles, sliced
- 18 fresh chestnuts, boiled or roasted, peeled, shelled and sliced
- 1/4 cup dry sherry
- Dash of Tabasco sauce
- Salt and pepper to taste
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Melt the butter in a large saucepan and cook the mushrooms for
10 minutes or until most of the liquid is released from them. Add
the chestnuts and cook for 3 minutes. Add the dry sherry and Tabasco
sauce, and season with salt and pepper.
--Esther Whited
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ALTERNATE MUSHROOMS: Common Store Mushroom, Hedgehog Mushroom
Chicken Breasts with Chanterelles
Serves 4 as a main course
Chanterelles and chicken is a natural combination. Here chicken
breasts are poached and cut into small portions. The chanterelles are
sautéed and served over the chicken.
- 2 cups dry white wine
- 1 garlic clove, crushed
- 1 bay leaf
- 1 parsley sprig
- 4 single chicken breasts, skinned and boned
- 1-1/2 pounds chanterelles, chopped
- 4 tablespoons butter
- 3 shallots or 1 medium onion, minced
- 1/3 cup pine nuts
- Chopped fresh parsley
- Salt and pepper to taste
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In a large saucepan, bring the wine, garlic, bay leaf, and
parsley to a simmer. Add the chicken, cover, and cook until tender,
about 15 minutes. When cool enough to handle, remove the chicken and chop
into small portions. Strain the liquid into a medium saucepan.
In a sauté pan or skillet, sauté the chanterelles in the butter
until tender. Pour the liquid from the mushrooms into the reserved
poaching liquid and cook until it becomes slightly thickened.
Add the shallots, pine nuts, chicken, and the chanterelles to
the liquid and cook without a cover for 10 minutes. Complete the
dish with the parsley, salt, and pepper.
--Jackie Baydo
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ALTERNATE MUSHROOM: Shaggy Mane, Morels
Chicken Baked with Cream and Chanterelles
Serves 4 as a main course
Present this dish with fresh vegetables such as green beans or
broccoli, rice, and a fine white wine such as chardonnay.
- 2 tablespoons butter
- 1 pound chanterelles, sliced
- 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
- 2 tablespoons chopped shallots or green onions
- 1 tablespoon marjorum
- 1/4 cup dry white vermouth or dry sherry
- 1/2 cup heavy cream
- One 2-1/2-pound chicken, cut into serving pieces and skinned
- Salt and pepper to taste
- Chopped fresh parsley
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Melt the butter in a sauté pan or skillet and add the
chanterelles, lemon juice, shallots, and vermouth. Cook over low
heat for 20 minutes. Add the cream and cook 5 minutes more.
Season the chicken lightly with salt and pepper. Place the
chicken in a shallow ovenproof dish. Pour the sauce over the chicken
and cook for 30 to 45 minutes in a preheated 350º oven. Baste
occasionally with the pan juices. Adjust the seasoning. Add parsley
and serve.
--Robert Mackler
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ALTERNATE MUSHROOMS: Hedgehog Mushroom, Milky Caps
Chicken with Chanterelles and Marsala
Serves 4 as a main course
- 4 single chicken breasts, skinned and boned
- 6 tablespoons peanut oil
- 2 tablespoons soy sauce
- 1 tablespoon Asian sesame oil
- 1 teaspoon mirin or dry sherry
- 2 garlic cloves, minced
- 1/2 to 3/4 pound chanterelles,sliced
- 1/2 teaspoon paprika
- 2 tablespoons flour
- 1 cup chicken broth
- 1/2 cup dry Marsala wine
- Freshly ground black pepper
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Marinate the chicken breasts in 2 tablespoons of the peanut
oil, soy sauce, sesame oil, mirin, and garlic for 2 hours.
In a sauté pan or skillet, cook the mushrooms in 2 tablespoons
of the oil slowly to cook off their liquid; set aside. Mix the
paprika into the flour. Drain the chicken and roll it in the flour
mixture. In another sauté pan or skillet, sauté the chicken in the
remaining oil, browning on both sides for 3 minutes. Add the
chicken broth, Marsala wine, and the mushrooms. Cover and cook over
low heat for 20 minutes or until the chicken is tender. Add pepper
to taste.
--Pat George
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ALTERNATE MUSHROOMS: Common Store Mushroom, Hedgehog Mushroom, Milky Caps
Veal with Chanterelles
Serves 4 as a main course
Veal is a superb accompaniment for the delicate flavor of chanterelles.
- 8 veal scallops
- 4 tablespoons butter
- 3 tablespoons minced green onions
- 1/2 cup dry white wine
- 2/3 cup beef broth
- 1 tablespoon cornstarch
- 1/4 cup water
- 1-1/2 cups half and half
- 1/2 pound chanterelles, sliced
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Gently pound the veal scallops. In a sauté pan or skillet,
melt 2 tablespoons of the butter and sauté the scallops until both
sides are brown.
Transfer the scallops to an ovenproof dish and place in a 200º
oven to keep warm. Add the onions to the pan and sauté for about 1
minute. Pour in the wine and beef broth, and boil for about 5
minutes. Mix the cornstarch and water in a cup. Add to the wine
mixture along with the half and half. Cook until the mixture is
slightly thickened.
In the meantime, sauté the chanterelles in the remaining 2
tablespoons of the butter in a small skillet. This should take 3 to
5 minutes. Add the mushrooms and veal to the sauce mixture in the
sauté pan and heat thoroughly. Serve with rice.
--Candice Mick
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ALTERNATE MUSHROOMS: Hedgehog Mushroom, Oyster mushroom, Morels
Veal Chops with Chanterelles
Serves 4 as a main course
The Italian name for this dish is CAFfi del capitano ai funghi,
"captain's moustache with wild mushrooms," because the curved bones
of the veal chops are thought to resemble moustaches.
- 1/2 cup water
- 2 tablespoons butter
- 1 lemon
- 1 pound chopped chanterelles
- 4 loin veal chops with curved bones trimmed of fat
- 1 tablespoon butter or more if needed
- 1 tablespoon olive oil or more if needed
- 4 minced shallots or green onions
- Salt and pepper to taste
- 1/4 cup heavy cream
- Minced fresh parsley
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Place the water, butter, and the juice of 1/2 lemon in a large
saucepan. When the water begins to boil, immediately add the
chanterelles and simmer 5 minutes. Remove the chanterelles with a
slotted spoon. Reduce the cooking liquid until the mushroom flavor
is intense.
Sprinkle the chops with juice from the remaining lemon half.
Melt the butter with the olive oil in a sauté pan or skillet. Sauté
the chops until golden brown on both sides. Remove the chops to a
warm platter.
Put the chanterelles in the sauté pan. Add the shallots and the
reduced cooking liquid, salt, and pepper. Toss and cook a few
minutes. Add the cream and cook down until thickened. Then add the
parsley, toss, and serve the sauce over the chops.
--Mary Etta Moose, Washington Square Bar and Grill
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ALTERNATE MUSHROOM: Hedgehog Mushroom
Pork Loin Chops with White Wine
Serves 4 as a main course
Pork loin chops, chanterelles, and a spicy wine such as a
gewurztraminer make this an outstanding dish.
- Four 1/2-inch-thick pork loin chips
- 2 tablespoons olive oil
- 2 or more garlic cloves, minced
- 2 tablespoons butter or more
- 1/2 to 1 pound chanterelles, chopped
- 3 tablespoons chopped fresh parlsey
- 1/2 cup dry white wine
- Salt and pepper to taste
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In a sauté pan or skillet, brown the pork chops in the olive
oil. Add the garlic the last few minutes. Remove the garlic and
chops to a warm dish and drain the excess fat. Melt the butter in
the same pan and add the chanterelles, sautéing lightly for 7
minutes. Add the chops and garlic, parlsey, wine, salt and pepper to
taste. Simmer covered until the chops are tender, about 1 hour.
Serve with rice, mashed potatoes, or noodles.
--Carol Gass
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ALTERNATE MUSHROOMS: Common Store Mushroom, Hedgehog Mushroom
Pork and Chanterelles with Tomato Sauce
Serves 4 as a main course
Excellent when served over linguine or fettuccine, with a side dish
of fresh vegetables.
- 1/4 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
- 1 cup French bread crumbs
- 1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley
- Four 1-inch-thick pork chops
- 1 egg, beaten
- 1 tablespoon mild vegetable oil
- 1 tablespoon butter
- 1/2 pound chanterelles, chopped
- 1 cup tomato sauce
- Salt and pepper
- 1/4 cup dry vermouth
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Mix together the Parmesan cheese, bread crumbs, and parsley.
Trim the fat from the chops. Dip the chops in the egg and then in
the Parmesan cheese mixture. Brown on both sides. Place the chops in a baking dish.
Heat the oil and butter in a sauté pan or skillet. Cook the
chanterelles for 5 minutes. Add the tomato sauce and cook 7
minutes more. Season with salt and pepper.
Pour the mushrooms and sauce over the chops in the baking dish.
Add the vermouth. Bake in a preheated 350º oven until tender, about
1 hour.
--Robert Mackler
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ALTERNATE MUSHROOMS: Hedgehog Mushroom, Shaggy Parasol Mushroom
Chanterells and Prawns in Cream
Serves 4 as a main course or 6 as a first course
This delicious dish is highlighted by complex flavors. Serve it
as a soup or over sesame spiral pasta or brown rice as a main
course.
- 1 pound chanterelles, cut in bite size
- 2 tablespoons butter
- 20 large prawns, shelled, deveined, and split in half lenghwise
- 1/2 cup flour
- Salt and pepper to taste
- 3 to 4 tablespoons olive oil
- 1/4 cup chopped green onions
- 1/2 cup Dubonnet
- 1/2 cup dry white wine
- 5 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
- 1 cup heavy cream
- 1/2 cup chicken broth
- Chopped fresh parsley
- Freshly grated Parmesan cheese
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In a sauté pan or skillet, sauté the chanterelles in the butter
until only a small amount of liquid remains. Set aside.
Dust the prawns with a mixture of flour, salt, and pepper. Heat
the olive oil in a sauté pan or skillet and sauté the prawns until
pink and opaque. Drain on paper towels.
Put the green onions, Dubonnet, wine, lemon juice, cream, and
broth in a saucepan and heat slowly for 5 to 7 minutes. Do not let
the mixture boil. Remove from the heat and combine with the
chanterelles and prawns. Garnish with parsley and Parmesan cheese.
--Tom Wishing and Kathleen Cecil
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ALTERNATE MUSHROOMS: Hedgehog Mushroom, Milky Caps
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