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Ear Mushrooms

Cloud Ear (Auricularia auricula); Wood Ear (A. polytricha)

Two species of Auricularia, a group of jelly fungi, are often used in Asian cuisine. Both are sold dried in Asian markets and are reasonably priced compared to many wild or cultivated mushrooms. For culinary purposes, they are identical.

Ear Mushroom -- Click for larger image

Auricularia polytricha is variously called "wood ear," "tree ear," "black fungus," or "muk nge". The dried ear-shaped cap is medium sized, dull in texture, and dark brown to black. The wavy lower surface has a contrasting powdery gray color. The stem is absent or rudimentary. It has no gills. It is a native of Asia and some Pacific Ocean islands in humid climates. Most major Asian countries successfully cultivate A. polytricha today.

These fungi are used for their crisp, snappy texture and their color rather than their taste. The Chinese regularly add A. polytricha to dishes because they think it improves breathing, circulation, and well-being. And they may be correct. Recent studies of the medicinal effects of Auricularia polytricha have identified a chemical that tends to inhibit blood clotting. Since blood vessel diseases, strokes, and heart attacks are associated with clotting, perhaps moderate ingestion of this mushroom as food may indeed confer long life and good health on its users.

Auricularia auricula, "cloud ear," "Judas' ear," or yung nge, is a smaller fungus, with a brown to black cap surface, and is dull brown underneath. A. auricula is not restricted to Asian countries. It is found growing on dead wood worldwide. Plan to pay more for it than for A. polytricha.

Both fungi are imported dried from Asia packed in plastic bags. Store the mushrooms in well-covered heavy plastic or glass containers. You get your money's worth when you buy this fungus, especially A. polytricha. A wood ear will rehydrate in hot water in 15 to 20 minutes, and swell two to five times its original size. It will look like an enormous, swollen, shiny black ear. Only two or three pieces are needed for four servings.

Cleaning

After reconstitution in warm water, clean under running water with light finger pressure to remove debris. Cut off any fibrous material adhering to the base of the mushroom.

Cooking

These fungi are used for their crisp, snappy texture, and their color rather than their taste. The Chinese regularly add A. polytricha to dishes because they think it improve breathing, circulation, and well-being. And they may be correct. Recent studies of the medicinal effects of Auricularia polytricha have identified a chemical that tends to inhibit blood clotting. Since blood vessel diseases, strokes, and heart attacks are associated with clotting, perhaps moderate ingestion of this mushroom as food may indeed confer long life and good health on its users. A. auricula is usually sliced in 1/4-inch strips for cooking. Cook them for only a short time. In fact, if allowed to stand with food for any length of time, these mushrooms lose their firmness. For soups, stir-fried dishes, or salads, add such slices as the last stage of food preparation.

Preserving

This fungus will not store well after rehydration. Keep it dry in insect-proof containers.


Chinese Crab Salad

Serves 4 as a first course

A snappy salad with the taste of the sea. The wood ears remain firm and chewy.

  • 1/2 cup dried wood ear mushrooms
  • 1 medium-sized cucumber, peeled
  • Salt
  • 1/2 cup fresh cooked crab meat, shredded
    Dressing:
  • 1-1/2 teaspoons sugar
  • 1/2 teaspoon grated fresh ginger
  • 2 tablespoons soy sauce
  • 1 tablespoon rice vinegar or Chinese red vinegar
  • 1 teaspoon Asian sesame oil
  • Cilantro sprigs

Soak the wood ears in hot water to cover until soft, about 15 to 20 minutes. Drain and slice.

Cut the cucumber in half lengthwise. Slice very thin diagonally. Sprinkle lightly with salt. Allow to stand for 5 minutes; drain well. Squeeze to remove the excess moisture. Place the cucumber slices in a circle on a plate. Put the sliced wood ears in the center. Arrange the crab meat neatly on top of the mushrooms.

Mix the dressing ingredients together and drizzle the dressing over the salad. Garnish with cilantro.

--Kay Shimizu, from Cooking with Exotic Mushrooms

ALTERNATE MUSHROOM: Enoki


Ma-Po Tofu

Serves 6 as a first course

An unusual soup containing exotic Chinese ingredients. The Chinese-style tofu is the firm variety. The Szechwan peppercorns are not related to our black pepper; they will last for a long time if sealed in a glass jar. The fermented black beans, hot bean sauce, and Asian sesame oil are available in Chinese markets.

  • 2 packages Chinese-style tofu, cut into small cubes
  • 1/2 teaspoon Szechwan peppercorns
  • 3 to 4 wood ear mushrooms
  • 2 to 3 large fresh or dried shiitake mushrooms
  • 1 large pork chop, fat left on
  • 3 tablespoons minced fresh ginger
  • 2 tablespoons minced garlic
  • 1 teaspoon fermented black beans, rinsed, drained, and chopped
  • 1-1/2 teaspoons hot bean sauce
  • 3 tablespoons oil
  • 1 cup chicken broth or water
  • 2 tablespoons cornstarch
  • 1/4 cup water
  • 1 tablespoon soy sauce
  • 2 green onions, including the tops, cut into 1-inch lengths
  • 1 tablespoon Asian sesame oil

Place the tofu in a mixing bowl and cover with boiling water for 1 to 2 minutes. Drain. Heat and stir the peppercorns in a dry wok until they begin to smoke and smell of pepper. In a mortar, grind the peppercorns into a fine powder. Soak the wood ear mushrooms in hot water for 15 to 20 minutes. Drain and slice into small sections. If using dried shiitakes, soak for 20 minutes in hot water. Drain and chop into matchstick pieces. Slice the pork into small pieces.

Mix together the ginger, garlic, beans, and bean sauce. Heat the oil in a wok and stir-fry the pork until the color changes. Remove to a plate with a slotted spoon. Quickly stir-fry the garlic mixture. Add to the meat. Let the wok cool a little and add the broth or water. Add the drained tofu and cook gently until the liquid reduces somewhat. Stir in the shiitake mushrooms, wood ears, and pork and garlic mixture.

In a small bowl, mix the cornstarch, water, and soy sauce together. If necessary, adjust thickening. Add the onions and sesame oil, and serve immediately.

--Helen Studebaker


Shrimp with Wood Ears

Serves 4 to 6 as a main course

A fragrant, well-seasoned shrimp dish with bite-sized pieces of ear mushrooms. Take care not to overcook the shrimp or the wood ears.

  • 1 small handful dried wood ear mushrooms
  • 1 tablespoon Asian sesame oil
  • 2 tablespoons peanut oil
  • 1 to 2 garlic cloves, minced
  • 1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger
  • 1 pound shrimp, peeled and deveined
  • 1 green onion, sliced
  • 2 carrots, very thinly sliced
  • 1/2 cup bamboo shoots, sliced
  • 1/2 cup fresh or thawed frozen green peas
  • 1 cup bean sprouts
  • 3 tablespoons dry white wine
  • 1 teaspoon soy sauce
  • 1/4 teaspoon grated lemon peel
  • Cilantro sprigs

Soak the wood ears in hot water to cover until soft, about 15 to 20 minutes. Squeeze the mushrooms dry and cut to bite size.

In a wok or skillet, heat the sesame and peanut oils. Add the garlic and ginger and stir over medium heat. Add the shrimp, wood ears, and green onion. Stir-fry until the shrimp are pink and opaque. Remove the mixture from the pan with a slotted spoon.

Turn the heat high and add the carrots, bamboo shoots, and green peas and stir for a minute. Add the sprouts, wine, and soy sauce. Add a little water if needed. Stir-fry for 2 minutes.

Return the shrimp mixture to the wok and stir-fry for another minute. Serve on a heated plate and garnish with grated lemon peel and whole sprigs of cilantro.

--Lois Der

ALTERNATE MUSHROOM: Shiitake


Sweetbreads with Two Kinds of Mushrooms

Serves 6 as a main course

An exquisite dish blending many flavors with subtlety. Serve with white or brown rice, or pasta. Chardonnay or champagne will complete this meal.

  • 2 pounds sweetbreads
  • Vinegar
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 3 allspice berries
  • 1 small handful dried wood ear mushrooms
  • 4 tablespoons butter
  • 1 large sweet onion, sliced
  • 1/4 cup brandy
  • 1/2 cup dry white wine
  • 1/2 pound cooked ham, cut into 1/2-by-1/2-by 2-inch slices
  • 1 pound common store mushrooms, sliced
  • 1/4 cup heavy cream
  • 1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley

Soak the sweetbreads in cold water to cover for 1 hour, changing the water 2 or 3 times. Drain and place in a deep pot. Measure out cold water to cover, then add 1 tablespoon vinegar per quart of water. Add the bay leaf and allspice. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, and simmer for 15 minutes.

Drain the sweetbreads and plunge them into cold water for 5 minutes. Drain again. With fingers remove the dark veins and thick membrane from the sweetbreads.

Soak the wood ears in hot water to cover for 15 to 20 minutes. Squeeze the mushrooms dry and cut to bite size.

In a large sauté pan or skillet, heat the butter until foamy. Brown the sweetbreads on all sides. Add the onion and cook rapidly until the meat is tender. Heat the brandy gently and pour over the sweetbreads and onion. Ignite. When the flames go out, add the white wine, ham, wood ears, and store mushrooms. When these are done to taste, stir in the cream and parsley.

--Carolyn Richmond

ALTERNATE MUSHROOM: Substitute Shiitake for Ear Mushrooms