Black Saddle Mushroom
These black, wrinkle-capped mushrooms occur late in the
winter on the West Coast. They have thick, convoluted, and sometimes
shiny or slick rounded caps. The broad, hollow, pale-gray stems are
fluted and scooped out. Millipedes and insects frequently use these
crevices as temporary homes. They can easily be evicted while
cleaning.
H. lacunosa is frequently found in large numbers in California,
especially under Monterey pines and oak trees. These mushrooms are
found scattered in hardwood or conifer forests, but seldom in as
large numbers as around cultivated and landscaped places. In the eastern
United States they show up in smaller numbers. They appear in many
stages of development, from small erupting fruits to crumbling,
decomposing older individuals. The small ones are the most favored.
Black saddle mushrooms have deep-black caps and firm, dry,
rubbery, whitish stems. In general, there are few look-alikes for
this species. But beware of a common white to pink mold that attacks
and coats the surface of the cap. It can cause stomach upsets.
Cleaning
Remove the leaves, insects, or pine needles and debris, using a
little water. Trim the stem.
Cooking
The flavor of H. lacunosa is subtle, and the interesting
rubbery stem will give your dishes an unusual texture. Sometimes a
dark pigment is released in cooking.
Most mushroom field guides caution users of H. lacunosa to
either dry or parboil this mushroom for 3 to 5 minutes before cooking
because it may contain a small amount of a toxic substance. This
material, monomethylhydrazine, escapes into the air when the mushroom
is dried, and it is cooked out when parboiled in water. The water
should be discarded.
These mushrooms may be cross-sectioned and cooked in cheese
sauce, or deep-fried until crisp. They can be simply sautéed with
onions, or cooked in an omelette with chopped parsley. They also go
well with rice.
Dried H. lacunosa absorbs water easily, so no soaking is needed
prior to cooking.
Preserving
These mushrooms may be either dried or pickled. They should be
parboiled before pickling. Discard the boiled water.
Day and Night Rice
Serves 4 as a side dish
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The subtle flavor of the black saddle mushroom and the contrasting
color of the rice makes this an unusual side dish. Serve with any
meat or fish, and a tossed salad.
- 6 to 8 fresh or 4 to 5 dried black saddle mushrooms
- 2 cups water
- 1/2 teaspoon salt
- 1 cup long-grain rice
- 2 tablespoons butter
- 1/2 cup slivered blanched almonds
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If using fresh black saddle mushrooms, drop the mushrooms into
boiling water to cover. Lower the heat and simmer for 3 to 5
minutes; the mushrooms should remain slightly al dente; drain and
discard the water. There is no need to soak dried black saddle
mushrooms.
Bring the water and salt to a boil in a heavy medium-sized
saucepan. Stir in the rice, reduce to a simmer, cover, and cook for
20 minutes. While the rice is steaming, slice the parboiled
mushrooms or break the dried mushrooms in small pieces. In a small
sauté pan or skillet, melt the butter and sauté the mushrooms for
about 5 minutes. Add the slivered almonds. Stir for another few
minutes until the almonds are golden, then set aside. When the rice
is done, allow it to rest off the heat for at least 5 minutes. Add
the mushrooms and toss to mix.
--Ed Aguilar
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ALTERNATE MUSHROOMS: Black Chanterelle, Shiitake
Black-Eyed Pasta
Serves 4 as a main course
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The black saddle mushroom stands out dramatically against white
pasta. The texture of the mushroom complements asparagus.
- 1 to 1-1/2 pounds fresh, or 2 to 3 ounces dried black saddle mushrooms
- 4 tablespoons butter
- 1-1/2 tablespoons olive oil
- 6 green onions, sliced
- 2 cups chopped ham
- 1/2 pound asparagus, sliced into small pieces
- 1/2 cup rich chicken broth
- 1 pound fettuccine or tagliarini
- 1/2 cup half and half
- Freshly grated Parmesan cheese
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If using fresh black saddle mushrooms, drop the mushrooms into
boiling water to cover. Lower the heat and simmer for 3 to 5
minutes; the mushrooms should remain slightly al dente; drain and
discard the water. There is no need to soak dried black saddle
mushrooms.
Heat the butter and oil in a large saucepan and sauté the onions
until translucent. Add the ham and sauté briefly. Then add the
asparagus and broth. Simmer for about 5 minutes.
Cook the pasta in a large amount of boiling salted water until
al dente; drain. Add the ham and asparagus mixture to the pasta
along with the mushrooms and half and half. Cook over low heat until
heated through.
Serve with grated Parmesan cheese.
--Camilla Barry
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ALTERNATE MUSHROOMS: Black Chanterelle, Morels
Beef Stew with Black Saddle Mushrooms
Serves 4 as a main dish
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A blend of beef and black saddle mushrooms, to be served over rice
and accompanied with a rich cabernet sauvignon or burgundy for a
robust meal.
- 1 pound fresh or 3 ounces dried black saddle mushrooms, coarsely chopped
- 1-1/2 pounds chuck steak, cut into 1/2-inch strips
- 1/2 cup flour
- 1/4 cup mild vegetable oil
- 1 large onion, sliced
- 1 or 2 green bell peppers, sliced
- 2 cups chicken broth
- 3 tablespoons soy sauce
- 1 to 2 tablespoons tomato paste
- 1-1/4 pounds Italian tomatoes, coarsely chopped
- Salt
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If using fresh black saddle mushrooms, drop the mushrooms into
boiling water to cover. Lower the heat and simmer for 3 to 5
minutes; the mushrooms should remain slightly al dente; drain and
discard the water. There is no need to soak dried black saddle
mushrooms.
Dredge the meat in the flour. Heat 3 tablespoons of the oil in a 3- to
4-quart Dutch oven and cook the meat until browned. Remove with a
slotted spoon and set aside. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon oil
and cook the onions and green peppers over medium heat for about 5
minutes. Mix the broth, soy sauce, and tomato paste together, and
add to the pot along with the mushrooms, meat, and tomatoes. Cover
the pot and bake in a preheated 325º oven for about 1 to 1-1/2 hours
or until the meat is tender. Add salt as necessary.
--Monique Carment
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ALTERNATE MUSHROOM: Common Store Mushroom, Shaggy Parasol Mushroom
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